My entire life has been a movable feast of underground immigrant vendors. I buy wheels of stinky fromage from cheesemongers who smuggle them across the border. My family used to buy house-made chorizo from another family who would get pigs from a farm in the Inland Empire and slaughter them in their backyard. Distant relatives brought back suitcases of rare pumpkin seeds and buckets of quince paste from their villages to sell to the Mexican diaspora up here. 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